CYPERN:
Bjerge, grænsekrydsning og en forbudt kærlighed 

14. maj 2024

Dyk ned i hjertet af Cypern med mig. Sammen vil vi udforske bjerge, krydse grænsen i verdens eneste opdelte hovedstad og høre fortællingen om forbudt kærlighed.

Welcome back to our exciting journey through the beautiful island of Cyprus. Today, we’re diving deep into its heart, exploring rugged mountains, crossing borders, and unravelling a captivating story of forbidden love that’s straight out of a movie. 

Christy’s Palace Hotel:

A Family Legacy 

Let’s kick things off with a visit to Christy’s Palace Hotel nestled in the quaint village of Pedoulas. This charming family-owned hotel has been a beloved fixture since 1955.  

Managed with warmth and care by 88-year-old Andreas Pavlou and his family, Christy’s Palace Hotel isn’t just a place to stay—it’s a home away from home. Andreas, a wise elder with tales to share, once served as a bank manager and the head of the village council.  

When you stay at Christy’s Palace Hotel, you’re not just a guest – you’re part of the family. As you sip your morning coffee overlooking the picturesque village, Andreas might just entertain you with stories of days gone by, painting a vivid picture of life in Pedoulas. 

Romeo and Juliet in Cyprus 

In the podcast episode you can hear how he tells me about how he lived across the border among the Turks – in what is now Northern Cyprus. He liked the Turkish community, and especially this young Turkish woman, that he fell in love with when he was 18 years old. But his father didn’t approve. Him being Greek Cypriot, he wanted his son to find a nice Greek woman. As Andreas speaks about this, I can hear it in his voice that he still thinks “if only”. Even 70 years later.  

If you go to Cyprus and decide to go to the mountains, I highly recommend Christy’s Palace Hotel in Pedoulas. It’s got a stunning view and the staff is very friendly. If you do, please say hi to Andreas for me. You can find it on Hotels25.com 

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The Cyprus Conflict: A Brief History 

Cyprus’s history is a bit like a rollercoaster ride, full of ups and downs. It all started back when Cyprus was a British colony. After it gained independence in 1960, tensions between the Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots escalated. Things reached a boiling point in 1974 when Turkey invaded, and the island ended up split in two. Since then, Cyprus has been divided, with tensions simmering just below the surface. Today, the scars of conflict are still visible, but there’s also hope for reconciliation and a brighter future. 

Some people even talk about a re-united Cyprus, but Andreas doesn’t think that is going to happen. He never even went back to the town across the border – even though it would be possible and is only 30 minutes away.  

“No, I would never go. I would get a headache if I went – and saw the properties that I lost”. 

As he continues, it’s like his thinking “well, maybe I could, I just never gotten around to it, so maybe I should”. Have a listen to the episode, and judge for yourself.  

British Influence and Legacy 

The British may have left Cyprus, but their legacy lives on. You can see it in the military bases they still have today and in the way, people talk about their time here. Some folks remember the British fondly, while others aren’t too thrilled about their presence. Regardless of how you feel about the Brits, their influence on Cyprus is undeniable, shaping everything from politics to culture. 

Lost in No-man’s Land:

A Misadventure

 

My adventure takes an unexpected turn when I accidentally find myself on the wrong side of the border. Getting lost in a place you’re not supposed to be is never fun, but it sure makes for a good story! As I navigate my way back to familiar territory, I can’t help but marvel at the absurdity of borders and the resilience of the human spirit. 

Navigating the Divided Capital:

Nicosia

 

Now, let’s take a stroll through Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus. It’s a city unlike any other because it’s split right down the middle and is the only divided capital in the world. One side belongs to the Greek Cypriots, and the other to the Turkish Cypriots. You can literally walk across the border in the middle of the city. As you wander through the streets of Nicosia, you’ll encounter a fascinating blend of cultures, languages, and traditions, each telling its own story of Cyprus’s complex identity. 

I wasn’t allowed to take my rental car across the border, so I had to leave it in the south and walk across to my next home.  

Exploring Girne: A Coastal Gem 

The next morning, I got a bus to Girne, also known as Kyrenia. This charming coastal town in Northern Cyprus is a real hidden gem. With its ancient harbour and breath-taking views of the Mediterranean Sea, Girne feels like something out of a fairy tale. It’s the kind of place where you can lose yourself in history and let your imagination run wild.

Whether you’re exploring the narrow streets of the old town or soaking up the sun on a pristine beach, Girne offers a taste of paradise that’s hard to forget. 

Next week, we’re taking a closer look at “The Green Line” – the buffer zone between Cyprus and Northern Cyprus, as I go on a walk with a local, who really knows what she’s talking about.  

My name is Palle Bo, and I gotta keep moving. See you. 

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